Cult favourite Emolene is NOT your acne-prone skin’s best friend
A closer look at why this pharma moisturiser fails people with acne
Covered in this issue:
Why Emolene isn’t ideal for acne-prone skin
Problematic ingredients to watch out for
What to look for in an acne-safe moisturiser
If you want to eliminate stubborn acne from the inside out, access our comprehensive root cause analysis test and treatment program. ~85% of our first cohort saw visible improvements in their skin and acne in < 5 weeks
If you’ve had dry skin, explored drugstore moisturisers or looked up influencer recommendations - ‘Emolene’ won’t be new to you. That beautiful looking pale blue tube is omnipresent. Influencers swear by it, calling it the most underrated pharma-grade moisturiser – practically a must-have for everyone (and every skin type).
But here’s what they don’t tell you: it’s not designed for every skin type. This formulation is designed to hydrate acne-free dry skin, not oily, combination or acne-prone skin.
So if you’re someone who has broken out after using this cult favourite, it’s not you - it’s the formulation.
What are the problematic ingredients in Emolene?
Emolene positions itself as a “hydronourisher”: a treatment for dry skin. It’s lightweight and feels nourishing, but can be slightly occlusive. Dermatologists, unlike influencers, rarely recommend it for acne-prone skin.
Let’s break it down together.
One of the main hydrating ingredients in Emolene is propylene glycol, a humectant.
Humectants attract and bind water molecules, drawing in moisture from the air and deeper layers of the skin to the upper layer of the skin (stratum corneum).
This makes the skin hydrated and locks in moisture.
So far so good. The problem lies in the several pore-clogging and outdated ingredients it contains, which make it unsuitable for acne-prone skin👇
Myristyl Myristate
Myristyl Myristate is an emollient. Think of emollients like thin wrappers or seals sitting on top of your skin, preventing moisture loss and keeping the skin hydrated.
However, myristyl myristate is rated 5/5 for comedogenicity on the INCI list. In English - it has a very high potential to clog pores and hence trigger acne, especially in acne-prone skin.
It also has other rich emollients like Stearic Acid and Cetyl Alcohol that can trap bacteria, sebum, and oil - creating the perfect environment for acne breakouts.
Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA)
A preservative flagged by the U.S. National Toxicology Program as a potential human carcinogen based on animal studies. Although it’s permitted for use in cosmetics within safe limits, it is considered an older preservative and not typically preferred in modern ‘clean’ skincare formulations. It is speculated to trigger skin irritation and allergic reactions in some individuals.
➡️ Further reading:
Toluene
A solvent more commonly used in nail paints and rarely in leave-on skincare now. Although considered safe when present in permissible concentrations, high levels and prolonged exposure to toluene have been linked to skin irritation, even neurotoxicity and reproductive toxicity. Again, an ingredient that’s not ‘clean’.
➡️ Further reading: Chemistry, health concerns associated with toluene and how to avoid it
How to choose a moisturiser for acne-prone skin?
If you have acne-prone skin, your moisturiser needs to hydrate without clogging your pores or suffocating your skin barrier. And if you currently have active acne or are dealing with post-acne inflammation, you need ingredients that aid barrier repair, soothe redness and inflammation, and support recovery.
Here’s a list of superstar ingredients you should look for in a moisturiser for acne-prone skin, or if you have active acne:
The next time you choose a moisturiser for acne-prone skin, don’t take an influencer’s word for it: look for the science and choose what’s best for your skin.
FINAL VERDICT: Emolene - good for dry or ultra-dry skin, but if you’re acne-prone look for better options.
If you want to eliminate stubborn acne from the inside out, access our comprehensive root cause analysis test and treatment program. ~85% of our first cohort saw visible improvements in their skin and acne in < 5 weeks