Sunscreen was never optional, but harsh UV indices just made it urgent
Everything you need to know about sunscreens - the science, the labels and what we’re getting wrong
Key Takeaways
Heat and UV exposure are both rising across India, making daily sun protection more critical than it has ever been.
Sunscreen in India is still perceived as a beauty product when it should be treated as a health product.
UV radiation is classified as a complete carcinogen - it breaks down DNA and contributes to skin cancer risk.
Most people apply half the recommended amount of sunscreen, which means an SPF 30 product is delivering closer to SPF 5 on their skin.
The recommended dosage of sunscreen is two finger-lengths for the face and a shot glass for the body.
An ideal sunscreen needs to be broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, with a PA rating of PA+++ or PA++++.
If you’re in Bengaluru like me, you’re likely also crying about the merciless summer in a city that’s been famous for its weather. Right now, Bengaluru’s UV index is hitting 11-13, and the WHO classifies anything above 8 as dangerous. 11+ is officially “extreme” and at that level, unprotected skin can burn in under 10 minutes. The scary bit is that the incoming summer in the rest of the country is only going to be harsher. A 2026 Nature Scientific Reports study found that by 2041-2070, dangerous Heat Index days (27°C+ combined with humidity) will rise by more than 50 extra days a year across India compared to 1971-2000.
Quick science note: Heat and UV are not the same thing. You can’t get sunburned from heat alone, and UV damage even happens on cool, non-summer days. But in Indian summers, both are increasing in parallel.
The Sunscreen Awareness Problem
A 2019 Mintel survey of 3,000 Indian adults found:
65% hadn’t used any form of sunscreen in the past twelve months
25% didn’t understand what SPF or PA meant on a label
22% didn’t know what level of SPF was appropriate for them
27% only applied sunscreen when they stepped out of the house
This is because sunscreen in India has been positioned as a beauty product rather than a health product. Even though it is one of the most studied and effective topical products to protect your skin from UV damage, skin cancer, melasma, photoaging, and hyperpigmentation. It should be thought of as a seatbelt, and not a beauty cream. You don’t wear it because it makes you look better - you wear it because it protects you from UV damage, which is classified as a skin carcinogen.
This doesn’t mean ‘sun’ is bad and you need to live like a vampire - sunlight has been shown to uplift mood and regulate the circadian rhythm. Even the WHO recognises small amounts of UV from sunlight can help Vitamin D synthesis. It’s high levels of UV exposure that is the problem. It just means you need to be mindful of protecting your skin in the sun.
How UVA, UVB, And Visible Light Damage Your Skin?
UVA and UVB aren’t high-tech spy code names - they’re different types of ultraviolet wavelengths in the sunlight that reaches your skin. UVA, UVB, and Visible Light damage your skin in different ways. You need a sunscreen that protects you from all of these collectively. By the way, there is also a UVC, but luckily the Earth’s ozone absorbs that - phew!
UVB rays (shorter wavelengths) break down the DNA structure, cause direct DNA damage and abnormalities, and contribute to most skin cancers.
UVA rays (longer wavelengths) generate free radicals that degrade collagen + elastin (which are responsible for the skin’s structure) and drive photoaging and pigmentation. UVA is also associated with some forms of skin cancer.
Visible light (the light you can actually see) triggers your melanocytes (melanin producing cells) to produce melanin even without a sunburn, causing pigmentation.
The solar UV reaching the Earth’s surface at midday is roughly 95% UVA and 5% UVB. But don’t think UVB is harmless - it’s roughly 1000× more biologically active per unit than UVA for causing sunburn and direct DNA damage.
What does this mean for Indian and acne-prone skin? Most Indian skin tones are more reactive to UV exposure, often causing months of hyperpigmentation on our skin. For those of us with acne - each lesion scars darker and lingers longer. Acne treatment products like Retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, Benzoyl Peroxide make your skin even more photosensitive. All in all, sunscreen is non-negotiable.
Types Of Sunscreens
Sunscreens are categorised based on their formulation - here’s a quick breakdown for you 👇🏼
Older-generation filters like oxybenzone are known irritants - they can sting, and are being increasingly linked to hormone disruption and environmental concerns. This is where new-gen filters present as a better alternative. (The research is evolving - perhaps we’ll cover this in another issue).
Note: The best sunscreen is the one you’ll actually wear every single day (consistency beats perfection here).
What Do SPF And PA On Sunscreen Labels Mean?
Acronyms can be confusing - especially when they come with random arithmetic signs or numbers in tow. But don’t worry, we got you.
SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a measure of how much UVB radiation is required to produce sunburn on protected skin (in the presence of sunscreen). Higher the SPF value, better the protection [Source: US FDA].
Note: the SPF scale is not linear. SPF 60 isn’t twice as protective as SPF 30. The jumps get smaller as the number gets bigger. SPF 30 is bare minimum, SPF 50+ is ideal.
PA (Protection Grade of UVA) rating measures sunscreen protection against UVA rays, which cause premature aging, wrinkles and pigmentation. Higher the ‘+’ signs, better the protection.
For example: PA++++ is better than PA++
Note: You want PA+++ or PA++++. Anything less and you're under-protected against the 95% of UV radiation that's actually reaching your skin.
What To Look For On The Sunscreen Label Before You Buy
Buying sunscreen can be overwhelming - trust me, I’ve been there. There are countless brands telling you how their product is better in countless different ways. So we made a dermat-approved checklist to help you discern from the marketing noise from the science, and focus on claims that actually carry weight. Follow this before you buy your next sunscreen:
Use SPF 30 or higher for daily use. SPF 50+ is ideal and will offer maximum protection - especially if you have acne, post-acne scars, or are on an acne treatment regimen.
Check for “broad spectrum” on the carton - this confirms protection from both UVA + UVB rays.
Look for a PA rating - ideally PA+++ or PA++++. This is your UVA protection, measured on a + to ++++ scale used across Asian and European sunscreens. No PA rating = no confirmed UVA protection.
Check for water resistance if you sweat or swim. A “water resistant” tag = the product maintains its SPF protection for ~ 40 minutes while swimming or sweating.
Look for a non-comedogenic tag, which means your sunscreen has been tested for pore-clogging.
Under-Applying Sunscreen = Significantly Less Sun Protection
The single biggest reason sunscreens “don’t work” isn’t the formulation. It’s underapplication.
The FDA standard for sunscreen is 2mg of sunscreen per cm² of skin. Which practically translates something like this:
Face + neck: Slightly more than 1/2 teaspoon, or two full finger-lengths squeezed along your index and middle fingers.
Whole body: roughly a shot glass - about 35 ml.
When you under-apply your SPF 30, its effectiveness reduces and behaves like SPF 15 or lower.
Why dermatologists stress on reapplying sunscreen?: Reapplying sunscreen every 2-3 hours helps replace the sunscreen filters that were degraded (broken down) from UV exposure. This ensures you get maximum protection throughout the day. Applying sunscreen 15 minutes before you step out is ideal because it helps form an intact protective film.
Confused about which sunscreen to buy? We got you
Do Not Skip Your Sunscreen - Sun Or No Sun
Sunscreen in India has been perceived as a beauty product. Add to this the myth that Indians don’t need sunscreen, or don’t get skin cancer - “it’s just a white people thing”. In reality, we all absolutely need sun protection. Sunscreen has been bucketed into the same category as ‘anti-tan’, making it an occasional product and not an everyday one.
And honestly, sunscreen is still a luxury for many in India, and that is the uncomfortable truth. For the people working outdoors - at construction sites, or in the fields, sunscreen isn’t a realistic purchase today - food and other basics obviously take precedence.
But if you can comfortably purchase even a basic sunscreen, do not skip it. It’s preventive care for your skin, the largest organ of your body.
Greet article, thank you! Would you happen to know what's a reliable source to get la Roche products in India? Generally don't trust the ones being sold on Amazon.
Great article. Quick question though: we know that summers are getting more intense - you point out yourself that radiation is increasing. Are the sunscreens available enough for the job? Do we need something more?
And it's interesting how you speak of changing summers. This issue of Never Too Late speaks of the same, and how it is putting midlifers living with diabetes or hypertension at higher risk.